{"id":44521,"date":"2024-02-15T21:52:59","date_gmt":"2024-02-15T21:52:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/portugalcurated.pt\/webcurated\/?p=44521"},"modified":"2024-03-04T23:25:19","modified_gmt":"2024-03-04T23:25:19","slug":"canalha","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sanchatrindade.com\/published\/canalha\/","title":{"rendered":"Canalha"},"content":{"rendered":"

Video here<\/a><\/i><\/b><\/p>\n

Aproveito para pedir desculpa aos meus leitores, porque visitei este aclamado restaurante mal abriu, mas a concorr\u00eancia para marca\u00e7\u00e3o \u00e9 tanta, que achei que todos ganhar\u00edamos com o compasso tardio da minha partilha.<\/p>\n

O novo restaurante do Chef Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues tem nome de Canalha, mas antes de viajarmos pelo significado desta deliciosa palavra do vern\u00e1culo portugu\u00eas, esta nova morada da Junqueira podia ser uma ode ao ADN da nossa querida Lisboa. E escrevo isto porque os restaurantes de bairro v\u00e3o desaparecendo nestes \u00faltimos anos de turismo arrebatador. E como lamparinas de identifica\u00e7\u00e3o para entender a g\u00e9nese e hist\u00f3ria das cidades portuguesas, o Canalha surge como uma inspiradora lufada de brisa Atl\u00e2ntica.<\/p>\n

Nem nos atrevamos a chamar de tasca ou casa de pasto, j\u00e1 que a nova morada de Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues \u00a0\u00e9 um despretensioso e inspirador restaurante de bairro, onde temos direito a \u00edcones simples e memor\u00e1veis como o tacho, o forno e a grelha. E confesso, sou suspeita sobre o restaurante mais concorrido da cidade, porque fica nas minhas imedia\u00e7\u00f5es.<\/p>\n

Mas passemos ao movimento, se em tempos conheci o Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues \u2018enclausurado\u2019 com o seu talento na cozinha do estrelado Feitoria, agora o Chef habita o espa\u00e7o com cara de mi\u00fado em manh\u00e3 de Natal, j\u00e1 que esta casa de jantar da Junqueira, concorrida como n\u00e3o tenho mem\u00f3ria, mais parece um clube de habituais com o seu rei a deambular entre os pratos e mesas.<\/p>\n

Depois de correr o pa\u00eds todo com os seus dois lind\u00edssimos projectos, o Mat\u00e9ria e o Resid\u00eancia, em busca de pequenos produtores, eis que surge o Canalha, uma homenagem \u00e0 av\u00f3 que, \u201cquando lhe perguntavam pelos netos, respondia: a canalha anda por a\u00ed a brincar, j\u00e1 que no Norte, de onde sou natural, e canalha \u00e9 um termo usado para referir os mi\u00fados, sem ser depreciativo\u201d.<\/p>\n

Pessoalmente n\u00e3o estranhei o nome porque tamb\u00e9m o meu Pai, homem dos livros e palavras invulgares, na sua condi\u00e7\u00e3o de alfarrabista usava sempre esta express\u00e3o em jeito de gra\u00e7a, nos tempos em que a minha gera\u00e7\u00e3o ainda brincava na rua. E o legado que Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues quer resgatar, vem destas antigas mem\u00f3rias, tempos esses deliciosos, em que o \u2018mundo\u2019 mal sabia da nossa exist\u00eancia.<\/p>\n

Pelos sabores esta \u00e9 uma morada para ir muitas vezes, De Past\u00e9is de Bacalhau a um Raspado de Presa de Vaca Simental Alex Castani, h\u00e1 Molejas de Borrego Alentejano, Alho Franc\u00eas Assado, com Pinh\u00f5es e Vinagrete de Mel e Lim\u00e3o ou uma Tortilha Aberta de Camar\u00e3o e Cebola. Pessoalmente, adorei o Arroz Frito de Mar e Montanha e a Lula de Toneira Grelhada e Manteiga de Ovelha, mas sugiro tamb\u00e9m o Carabineiro Salteado com Ovo Frito e Batata Laura Raul Reis.<\/p>\n

E porque \u00e9 portugu\u00eas temos todos direto ao Bitoque de Lombo pois claro. Ao almo\u00e7o, contem com especiais do dia. As carnes, peixes e mariscos est\u00e3o num quadro escrito \u00e0 m\u00e3o, e s\u00e3o servidos cozidos, grelhados ou salteados, sendo o pre\u00e7o definido por quilo. A acompanhar, uma carta de vinhos com curadoria de Daniel Rocha e Silva.<\/p>\n

Nas do\u00e7arias h\u00e1 Fruta da Esta\u00e7\u00e3o, Leite Creme, uma Mousse de Chocolate com P\u00f3 de Caf\u00e9 e o famoso e nacional Pudim Flan. Isto at\u00e9 me emociona porque perdi a conta que em restaurantes de bairro, o meu Pai pedia sempre “o pudim na toca”, que \u00e9 como quem diz, ainda na forminha para n\u00e3o espalhar o caramelo. Se ainda apanhar a \u00e9poca, o meu eleito \u00e9 o surpreendente Marmelo Assado e Gelado de Nata, \u2018\u00fanico\u2019, como s\u00f3 o Chef sabe.<\/p>\n

Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues vai receber-nos a todos por uns tempos, at\u00e9 o t\u00e3o esperado e proximo restaurante Monda, na Lourinh\u00e3 abrir os panos abra\u00e7ado a um pequeno projecto tur\u00edstico. Ao seu lado, L\u00edvia Orofino, do Rio de Janeiro, com algumas ra\u00edzes italianas e com passagem pela faculdade de gastronomia francesa do chef\u00a0Alan Ducasse, no elevado restaurante brasileiro Lasai, e de quatro anos na equipa do Chef do Feitoria, assegurar\u00e1 o futuro da casa.<\/p>\n

Eu por mim falo, estou encantada. Tenho carinho especial ao Chef Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues, pelo elogio que sempre deu aos pequenos produtores, e agora por resgatar a alma do que sempre existiu, ganhando com o restaurante Canalha, um rasgo de esperan\u00e7a e espero que de tend\u00eancia, para n\u00e3o deixar morrer as singulares caracter\u00edsticas da Lisboa que tanto tenho defendido.<\/p>\n

As imagens e o video no in\u00edcio deste texto continuar\u00e3o a \u2018escrever\u2019 por mim, mas a ideia do Chef era que esta morada fosse um espa\u00e7o descontra\u00eddo, cheio de gentes do bairro e viajantes da cidade. E se era muito esperada, o restaurante \u00e9 sen\u00e3o mais do que um restaurante de produto, onde nenhum ingrediente \u00e9 disfar\u00e7ado, e \u00e9 por isso uma cozinha directa que nos trata por tu. No que os olhos v\u00eam, mas tamb\u00e9m nas emo\u00e7\u00f5es que nos provoca. Estamos em Lisboa, minhas Senhoras e meus Senhores, a Lisboa mais bonita de todas que na nossa mais nobre mem\u00f3rias ainda \u00e9 dos lisboetas.<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

I’d like to take this opportunity to apologise to my readers because I visited this acclaimed restaurant as soon as it opened, but there’s so much competition for bookings that I thought we’d all gain from my late sharing.<\/em><\/p>\n

Chef Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues’ new restaurant is called Canalha, but before we travel through the meaning of this delicious word in the Portuguese vernacular, this new address in Junqueira neighbourhood could be an ode to the DNA of our beloved Lisbon. And I’m writing this because neighbourhood restaurants have been disappearing in recent years as a result of overwhelming tourism. And as identification lamps for understanding the genesis and history of Portuguese cities, Canalha is an inspiring Atlantic breeze.<\/em><\/p>\n

We don’t even dare to call it a tasca or a ‘casa de pasto’, since Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues’ new address is an unpretentious and inspiring neighbourhood restaurant, where we are entitled to simple and memorable icons such as the pan, the oven and the grill. And I confess, I’m suspicious about the city’s most popular restaurant because it’s in my neighbourhood.<\/em><\/p>\n

But let’s move on, if I once knew Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues ‘cloistered’ with his talent in the kitchen of the starred Feitoria, now the Chef inhabits the space with a kid’s face on Christmas morning, since this Junqueira dining room, as busy as I can remember, is more like a regulars’ club with its king wandering among the plates and tables.<\/em><\/p>\n

After travelling all over the country with his two beautiful projects, Mat\u00e9ria and Resid\u00eancia, in search of small producers, here comes Canalha, a tribute to his grandmother who, “when asked about her grandchildren, would reply: the scoundrel is out there playing, since in the North, where I come from, scoundrel is a term used to refer to kids, without being derogatory”.<\/em><\/p>\n

Personally, I wasn’t surprised by the name because my father, a man of books and unusual words, always used this expression as a joke when my generation was still playing in the street. And the legacy that Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues wants to revive comes from these old memories, delicious times when the ‘world’ hardly knew we existed.<\/em><\/p>\n

In terms of flavours, this is an address you’ll want to visit again and again. From Codfish Pasties to Alex Castani’s Shaved Simmental Beef Tusk, there’s Alentejo Lamb Molejas, Roast Leek with Pine Nuts and Honey and Lemon Vinaigrette or an Open Shrimp and Onion Tortilla. Personally, I loved the Sea and Mountain Fried Rice and the Grilled Toneira Squid with Sheep Butter, but I’d also suggest the Saut\u00e9ed Carabineros with Fried Egg and Laura Raul Reis Potatoes.<\/em><\/p>\n

And because it’s Portuguese, we’re all entitled to Bitoque de Lombo, of course. For lunch, there are specials of the day. The meat, fish and seafood are on a handwritten board and are served boiled, grilled or saut\u00e9ed, with the price set per kilo. Accompanying this is a wine list curated by Daniel Rocha e Silva.<\/em><\/p>\n

There are seasonal fruits, Leite Creme, a Chocolate Mousse with Coffee Powder and the famous national Pudding Flan. This makes me emotional because I’ve lost count of the fact that in neighbourhood restaurants, my father always asked for “the pudding in the hole”, which is how we say, still in the mould so as not to spread the caramel. If it’s still in season, my favourite is the surprisingly ‘unique’ Roast Quince and Cream Ice Cream, as only the Chef, knows how.<\/em><\/p>\n

Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues will be hosting us all for a while, until the long-awaited and forthcoming Monda restaurant in Lourinh\u00e3 opens its doors in the midst of a small tourism project. At his side, L\u00edvia Orofino, from Rio de Janeiro, with some Italian roots and a stint at chef Alan Ducasse’s French gastronomy school, at the top Brazilian restaurant Lasai, and four years on the Feitoria chef’s team, will ensure the future of the house.<\/em><\/p>\n

The images and video at the beginning of this text will continue to ‘write’ for me, but the Chef’s idea was for this address to be a relaxed space, full of people from the neighbourhood and city travellers. And if it was long-awaited, the restaurant is nothing more than a product restaurant, where no ingredient is disguised, and is therefore a direct kitchen that calls us by name. In what the eyes see, but also in the emotions it provokes. This is Lisbon, ladies and gentlemen, the most beautiful Lisbon of all, in our noblest memories, still belongs to the people who knows the genuine Lisbon soul.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"<\/em><\/small>\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"\"
\n\u00a9\u00a0<\/i>Sancha.Co Creative Lab<\/i><\/a><\/em><\/small><\/p>\n

O que adorei<\/strong>
\nSentir que Lisboa que conheci e tanto me inspirava
\nA melhorar<\/strong>
\nBaixar a luz ao jantar (entretanto concretizado)
\nA reservar<\/strong>
\nA mesa N.6, em frente \u00e0 mesa trabalho do chef<\/p>\n

What I loved<\/strong><\/em>
\nFeeling that Lisbon that I knew and was so inspired by<\/em>
\nTo be improved<\/strong><\/em>
\nDimming the lights at dinner (live already)<\/em>
\nTo book<\/strong><\/em>
\nTable N.6, in front of the chef’s work table<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Canalha<\/em><\/strong>
\ninstagram<\/a> . facebook<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/small>Follow Sancha.Co’s Instagram<\/a><\/em>
\nTo invest in Portugal with heritage preservation: CURATED Investments<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Video here Aproveito para pedir desculpa aos meus leitores, porque visitei este aclamado restaurante mal abriu, mas a concorr\u00eancia para marca\u00e7\u00e3o \u00e9 tanta, que achei que todos ganhar\u00edamos com o compasso tardio da minha partilha. O novo restaurante do Chef Jo\u00e3o Rodrigues tem nome de Canalha, mas antes de viajarmos pelo significado desta deliciosa palavra […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":101477,"featured_media":44574,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false},"categories":[81,363],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nCanalha | Sancha Trindade l TV - Published Articles<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"noindex, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pt_PT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Canalha | Sancha Trindade l TV - Published Articles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Video here Aproveito para pedir desculpa aos meus leitores, porque visitei este aclamado restaurante mal abriu, mas a concorr\u00eancia para marca\u00e7\u00e3o \u00e9 tanta, que achei que todos ganhar\u00edamos com o compasso tardio da minha partilha. 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